Autumn Jewels

The mist burns off to reveal a beautiful sun-filled autumn day. In the foreground, the majestic copper beech (Fagus sylvatica ‘Purpurea’) by the flint wall on the edge of the garden.

Planted in the portico bed: Marigold (Calendula officinalis) used in herbal remedies to heal wounds and soothe irritations.

On the edge of the garden, the mist burns off.

The Queen Mother’s tree planted in 1964: Silver Maple (Acer saccharinum)

If you’re visiting Uppark this autumn, feel free to share any images on social media platforms using #autumnjewels #uppark

Behind the Scenes

Can I be the only National Trust visitor who imagines “If I lived here……” as we wander around the larger than life houses and gardens? So when Andy, the Head Gardener at Uppark House, invited us for a “Behind the Scenes” look in the weeks leading up to the house opening to the rest of the general public we jumped at the opportunity. Especially keen gardener, allotment holder and enthusiastic pruner TDO (our family blog shorthand for The Daddy One) who had yet to visit Uppark. We have home educators National Trust Membership which is valid week days in term-time only and TDO often has Fridays off work; Uppark is currently closed on a Friday so consequently we simply hadn’t made it happen.

We have collaborated with Andy before on this post “Home Educators at Uppark” in which Orin, who is 4 now, remembered about the amazing water at Uppark and in the Autumn when Sapphire and Etienne, now 9 and 7,  road tested the Halloween trail.

TDO, Etienne and Orin were really impressed with Andy’s super-tidy, well organised tool shed and also his giant solar panel. We have a small solar panel at our allotment which powers a small pump that feeds our irrigation system and a greenhouse heater. Similar principal, different scale so it was great for the Trio to see a more ambitious project in action.

Sapphire was keen to show  TDO the grids covering the underground service tunnels and I talked to Andy about how, during a recent Aliens exhibition featuring War of the Worlds at the Lightbox in Woking, we had remembered the H G Wells / Uppark connection and how, as home educators, not following a subject/pigeon-hole curriculum gives us the opportunities to make such connections.

As we rounded the corner Etienne remembered the fun we had playing cricket last summer both with his grandparents, who are also big fans of the delicious crystal clear water at Uppark, and some of our home ed friends and so headed straight for the green box containing the bats and stumps and, for the first time since last year, in the lifting mist, we played outside.

Andy asked the trio if they could guess how the grass had been kept short during winter and eventually Sapphire guessed it was sheep who had munched away at it. 

Before we left this morning I did ponder whether to go with wellies or regular boots but incredibly, almost certainly thanks to the free draining chalk soil, Uppark is amazingly unmuddy in comparison to other places we have visited recently. Some of our local nature walks are still under water.

Andy left us to enjoy our lunch then, from the wind break of the Gothic temple, we started doing some sketching, something that regular viewers of our family blog will know we have been doing more of recently. Whilst looking for some pheasants Sapphire saw her first butterfly of the year. TDO enjoyed the way the garden had been shaped to frame the beautiful vistas.

In the sunshine today felt full of growth and promise. We were afforded the rare chance to see the snowdrops which will probably be past their prime when the house reopens on March 16th.

Very special memories.

Lancelot, Humphry and Me

Over the last couple of days the garden team have enjoyed a bit of sunshine. So, instead of scurrying across the garden with our heads down and hoods up, we’ve been able to appreciate the spectacular views framed by the garden.

As I wrote in my last blog, a key feature of Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown’s work at Uppark the late 18^th century was the creation of carefully orchestrated views for the garden’s users to explore and enjoy. However, the story of Uppark Garden does not end with Capability Brown.  In this blog post I’m going to explore the period from the 1790s onward, and particularly the work of Humphry Repton, which is the basis for much of our current restoration work.

1790s – 1820s
After Sir Matthew Featherstonhaugh’s death in 1774 and Brown’s subsequent death in 1783, the new pairing of Sir Harry Featherstonhaugh and landscape gardener Humphry Repton, heralded a second major change in the layout of the garden. It seems likely that a series of circuit paths date from this period. We have found traces of these paths in the garden and during the summer of 2013, archaeology students Sam (below left) and Jack (below right) carried out some excavations.

Repton is often referred to as Brown’s successor.  However, Repton’s designs were often less natural than Brown’s and included the sort of garden features which might have been seen in Rococo gardens.  An example of this type of feature at Uppark is the Coade Urn on the mound.

Repton’s work at Uppark also included the Portico and new north drive.  Plans for the new north entrance to the house are shown in the ‘Red Book’ of Repton’s designs for Uppark.  Intriguingly plans for other features which may not have been built included an informal Cottage Garden and a formal Rose Garden.  What does seem tantalisingly evident from Repton’s correspondence with Sir Harry Featherstonhaugh is that there would have been flower gardens at Uppark.

Repton’s work at Uppark, while not fully understood, is regarded as the most significant phase in the history of the garden.  This is why the section of border former Assistant Gardener Jo designed has been restored to the period 1810-1830.

Jo supervising the planting in September 2013

Later 1800s

After Repton’s alterations at Uppark, it seems that the garden did still undergo change.  Inevitably older plantings grew substantially over the years and new planting was also added.  A Country Life photograph from 1910 shows bedding in front of the East Pavilion which Dr Sarah Rutherford has identified as ‘typical of mid-late C19 schemes’.

1900s

By the time the National Trust received the garden in 1954 most of the 19^th Century path system shown in the 1873 OS map had vanished. The ‘Island Beds’ in the area north of the East Pavilion were added between 1991 and 2005 to add interest to a garden that had originally been ‘simplified’, an unfortunate reflection of the limited resources available at the time.

There are a lot of things that we can’t know for certain about the history of Uppark Garden. There has been a gradual change in the structure and use of the garden over three centuries, glimpses of which we see in the garden today.

In some areas, the garden team have been working to restore the 1810-1830s character of the garden. In the last few weeks we have begun to work on the next 20m section of the border which sweeps round inside the garden wall, following on from Jo’s work last year. We plan to complete the preparation of the area and the design work in time to plant in the early autumn.

However, just because we are restoring some areas to one short period in the garden’s history, does not mean that the earlier or later phases in the garden should be seen as insignificant. The garden is now enjoyed by many more people than at any other point in its life, and consciously or not, what we enjoy now is the result of centuries of change, and we’re not finished yet!

Winding Back the Clock

The clock tower in winter

My first three months as Assistant Gardener at Uppark have flown by.  Although I had some idea of what I was getting myself into I’m amazed at the variety of tasks and projects that I’ve become involved in.

One of the more unexpected jobs that the garden team take care of is winding the clock at the top of the East Pavilion.  Jo, Alan and Rae have all helped initiate me in the routine maintenance of the clock mechanism.  This is a weekly ritual that must have taken place since the 1750s (albeit with occasional gaps)  While winding away (it’s easier if you’re a bit distracted) it occurred to me that the clock had chimed its way through centuries of change in the garden.

I’ve become fascinated by what the garden at Uppark was like in the past and how it has evolved over the centuries.  Although I sadly can’t hop in a time machine, I’ve really enjoyed learning about the history of the garden by going on tours given by David, Julian and Bob, and by reading up as much as I can (particularly the Garden Conservation Statement by Dr Sarah Rutherford). While I’m definitely not an expert on garden history, this is what I’ve found out so far:

1703
The earliest known image of the garden shows a very structured and formal layout. While we don’t know how accurately the image represents the garden at the time, it is typical of gardens of the era, which were influenced by the formal royal gardens in France.
While there is little trace of this layout, it is a tantalising thought that some evidence of this layout (particularly the East Drive) may still exist beneath the present garden.

1720s– 1730s
While we don’t have much information about what was going on in the garden at Uppark at this time, there was a gradual transition towards a Classical Arcadian style of gardening.  This meant informal pleasure grounds which highlighted and manipulated ‘nature’ and featured increasing numbers of classical references.

An image that we do have from this period suggests a mixture of formality and informality.  There are straight avenues, but little to suggest the rigid square layout of Kip’s 1703 print. You can see this print in the ‘flower room’ in the house.

1740s

In the 1740s and into the 1750s, Rococo gardens featured Classical, Gothic, and Chinese influences to form complex gardens which could be ‘read’ like paintings or literature.  They often featured a circular route so that different features of the garden were gradually revealed.

Again, there seems little to suggest this kind of garden at Uppark.  A sale document from 1746 has been interpreted by Dr Sarah Rutherford to show: “Rectangular garden north of house, mount in pleasure ground to north-east of this, apsidal boundary to north flanked by woodland.”

It is certainly different to the garden we see now, although features like the mound are visible.

1750s – 1780s

After Sir Matthew Featherstonhaugh bought Uppark in 1746, significant changes were made to the garden by Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown.

Generally Brown is known for his ‘natural’ style of landscaping (in contrast to the more flamboyant Rococo style) and for creating large aesthetically pleasing parklands.

However, Uppark does not seem to have had a  parkland.  Dr Rutherford has described Uppark as:

“an unusual example of a discrete Brown pleasure ground designed in isolation from a large park design.”

It is striking from the plan that the boundary line of the garden seems similar to the current flint boundary wall.  The big mound (near the current golden gates) and the smaller mound (currently the site of the Gothick Seat) are visible.  There’s also a suggestion of ‘paths meandering’ through the pleasure grounds.

While Uppark was not Brown’s biggest commission, it seems that he would have employed the same techniques he used on larger projects. This would have included creating carefully orchestrated views for the garden’s users to explore and enjoy.

I’ve scratched the surface of the fascinating garden history of Uppark. In my next post I’ll explore the more recent developments in the garden.

Overground, underground, Spring into Uppark

Everything about our return visit to Uppark yesterday was unexpected.  Of course we were immediately struck by its unique beauty when we visited a couple of months ago – how could we not be?  But returning was like a second date during which it suddenly hits you that this is the start of a love affair.  Spring has been stumbling on unconvincingly for some time, but yesterday gained a new intensity and that was reflected in a difference in light and colour at Uppark.  The greens were greener, the lawns were softer, the texture of the borders was totally changed.  Where our first time at Uppark was dazzling, now we were able to relax and breathe it in.

One of the great things about a return visit is that, having got the lay of the land last time, we were under no pressure to cover every inch again and instead could take it at our own pace.  Or, more accurately speaking, at our two year old’s pace which seems to be the only way to sanity at the moment.  So with this in mind, and playing to the amazing spring day, our visit was completely spent in the gardens.  Well, that is if you don’t count the tunnels, because it would be tantamount to child cruelty not to make use of the remarkable underground network that HG Wells inhabited as a boy, and which apparently inspired his Time Machine.  There is something very magical about secret rooms, and this part of Uppark alone would be a draw, with its bat roosts, echoey chambers and beautiful ventilation shafts peeping out at ground level, like giant walkie-talkies.  Its cool shadows are a total contrast to the warm business of the gardens, and a reminder of the industry at work ‘below stairs’ servicing the great house in times gone by.

But first there was important hill-rolling to be done.  As luck would have it Katie (2) had discovered hill-rolling the previous day, which she was keen to showcase, and the first feature of the landscape as you pass through Uppark’s golden-tipped gates is a hill.  We used the trail to gently guide us around the garden, but the largest chunk of our time was devoted to the huge meadow in front of the house which looks out over the South Downs.  Just breath-taking, and from this angle the house looks like an extraordinary doll’s house dropped into the countryside.  In a brilliant piece of positioning, the meadow is equipped with an outdoor toy box, which kept the children entertained for hours.  We discovered that Harry looks a bit of a natural behind a cricket bat (so my husband tells me).  And it was the perfect location for Charlotte to work on her cartwheels and handstands.  But the thing about meandering around Uppark is that you feel compelled to stop and sit in so many places, and each of them has such a beautiful new perspective that it’s difficult to keep moving!

By late afternoon, and interspersed with essential refuelling at the café – taken outside – we headed over to watch the final Punch and Judy show. This was something of a gamble since Katie is not known for her focus or stillness, and I was unsure how well a puppet show would compare with Peppa Pig.  But fairly astoundingly she was mesmerised, and was rewarded with an impressively convincing balloon pig from the kind puppeteers’ assistant. Harry, stayed loyal to Star Wars and went for a light-sabre sword, while Charlotte – girl power & that, but still a little unpredictably – chose a machine gun!  Serious ballooning.  Harry (5) later had a concerned chat to me about Punch being rather rough, especially with the baby (he loves babies), which made me wonder how much puppets have a real physical presence to children?  The girls took it totally at slapstick value, and were in hysterics.  I noticed Harry watched it very seriously, but quickly went into a social laugh when one of his sisters glanced at him, a separateness that I recognise in myself.  But I digress …  It was fascinating to watch the audience as much as anything, and an impressive feat these days to hold a mixed age group totally rapt for half an hour.  The setting, in a nook in the scented garden was also inspired and made it feel like a room tucked away from the rest of Uppark.

Although we hadn’t planned it, this weekend was the launch of the National Trust’s ’50 things to do before you’re 11¾ ‘ campaign, and  living close enough to Mottisfont to drop in for a couple of hours, we’d kick-started this the previous day.  So Charlotte (7, The Organiser) had already had a chance to study the booklet and set her mind on the particular missions to be completed in Uppark.  This was to be grass trumpeting and bug hunting – she had packed a rucksack and everything!  By the end of the day – and using a bit of retrospective licence – I was reliably informed that we were now 18 items down.  Some of these adventures are rather more ambitious/age-reliant than others – for example, making a daisy chain versus learning to ride a horse, so I suspect there will be some variation in how dutifully these scrapbooks are completed.  But for now they are a total hit, and list ticking being indeed what lights the older two’s fires .

Despite arriving not long after 11 we were dragging our feet by 5 o’clock reluctant to be leaving.  Katie quite literally.  Somehow time seems to work differently in Uppark, although the chiming of the clock tower is a gentle reminder of the outside world.  An absolutely perfect day to end the bank holiday weekend, and as we floated back home, not a single child bickered in the car.  Now that you can’t buy.  Thank-you to everyone at Uppark for creating such a special place.

Disclaimer: No payment was received for this post.

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Rolling in the Deep

We’ve had an entertainment theme running this year at Uppark House and Garden. Recent posts on this blog have shown images of our very successful Victorian Weekend in early September – a Victorian celebration.

In Uppark House we have rolled back the years and the carpet to show our showpiece room the Saloon set up for a party.

This has given many people the chance to explore more, to observe the paintings, the beautiful ceiling and pieces from the collection in more detail, to imagine the room being used to celebrate great occasions in the past. Trees for me have a similar grandeur, venerable veterans are a symbol of past decades even centuries.

We’ve an ancient Yew tree near the entrance to the House that’s 1000 years old; think of all the history; two world wars, War of the Worlds – HG Wells lived here as a young ambitious writer, the tragedy and the celebrations.

Back to the Saloon, the party’s nearly over. We’re open until the end of the month and then we roll back the years and the carpet ready for Christmas and our open season next year, the year of the Olympics.

It’s a big old carpet so we’re all getting involved, it’ll be an event in itself. I’m quite looking forward to the room being put back. We’ll be doing this when we are closed in November so next year we can open more doors because the carpet wont be in the way!

On summer days, the sight of the internal doors being opened up to glimpse the South Meadow beyond as you enter Uppark House is a sweet, pretty thing, I love it – roll on summer, roll on 2012!